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FLEAS AND THEIR CONTROL Fleas are probably the most common cause of skin problems in both dogs and cats and are a source of annoyance, The life span of fleas is variable, with most living from 6 to 12 months as adults. Under ideal conditions, the life cycle can be completed in less than 3 weeks. The common flea of cats and dogs will feed on people if necessary, but adult fleas will die out if not allowed to feed on either dogs or cats for over two months. Two breeding fleas can produce 600 offspring in one month under ideal conditions. The eggs hatch in 2-12 days into maggot-like larvae and eventually spin a white cocoon. The adult flea emerges from the pupal stage in several days to two weeks. The pupal (cocoon) stages can survive up to 20 months without a blood meal and usually don't hatch into immature adults until they are sure they have found something to parasitize. It is speculated that body heat, exhaled carbon dioxide and even motion might trigger these immature forms to develop and seek out canine or feline hosts. Just as some people tend to attract insects such as mosquitoes while others appear immune, some pets are "flea bags" and always seem to be plagued by fleas while others seem never to be affected. There is a difference between flea infestation, fleabite dermatitis and flea bite hypersensitivity or flea allergy. In a truly flea-allergic animal, the bite of only one flea is sufficient to cause clinical problems for up to 5 days. It is clear that animals can have flea-bite hypersensitivity even if one never finds a flea on that animal. The allergic reaction to flea bites is centered on material present in the flea saliva. The tendency to become allergic to flea bites is not strictly a chance occurrence, and most cases are seen in animals with other allergies, those intermittently exposed to fleas, and those not exposed to fleas until later in life. Perhaps in some evolutionary strategy, dogs and cats exposed to fleas early in life and continuously, rarely develop clinical allergies to flea bites. By far the highest incidence of clinical flea allergies is seen in dogs exposed to fleas on an intermittent basis. The Philosophy of Flea Control Proper management of flea infestation requires treating the animal and the premises. The most common reason for flea control failure by owners is poor understanding of the dynamics of the flea population and poor compliance in treatment and preventative protocols. Failure will result unless the animal's) and environment are simultaneously treated. As educated consumers and environment conscious individuals, we must take the time to read product labels, learn about the products we use, the ingredients they include, their advantages, disadvantages and risks. Do you know what ingredients are in the products you are currently using? Take a look on the ingredient label!! GUIDE TO INSECTICIDES Pyrethrins - Natural Insecticides derived from certain species of chrysanthemums are considered the safest insecticides available (Pyrethins)* Pyrethroids - Synthetic pyrethrins often have stronger insecticidal activity, and more residual action than natural pyrethrins. It is speculated that Pyrethroids may not be as safe as the natural derivitives. (Resmethrin, Allethrin, d-trans Allethrin Fenvalerate, d-Phenothrin, Tetramethrin). Carbamates - last longer in the environment and are considered more toxic than the pyrethrins although toxicity varies considerably among products. (Carbaryl, Bendiocarb, Propoxur) Organophospates - originated as nerve gas in World War II, considered to be one of the more toxic insecticides to mammals, although products licensed to be used on pets have been safety evaluated. Residual activity varies with the chemical structure from slight to very persistent; it follows that the safest products do not persist in the environment and therefore must be frequently applied - insecticides which last longest, and are most convenient, are often the most toxic. (Chlorfenvinphos, Chlorpyrifos (Dursban)** Cythioate, Diazinon, Dichlorvos, Dioxathon, Fenthion, Malathion, Phosmet, Propetamphos, Temephos, Tetrachorvinphos) Insect Growth Regulators - provide a source of juvenile growth hormone to the environment which prohibits immature flea forms from developing into adults. These compounds won't kill fleas (as they aren't insecticides) but stop eggs and larvae in the environment from being capable of developing into adults. (in conjunction with insecticides as EctoGard, Permenta, Siphotrol Plus, VetKem) or by itself (Precor)***, Methoprene, Fenoxycarb) Reprinted from PET FOCUS, May/June, 1991; reprints available at a nominal cost - phone (602) 225-9353 *We recommend the Pyrethrins in a shampoo, or even for a dip on the dog to kill fleas. Pyrethrins are not very toxic, and don’t kill fleas fast, but will stun them and they can be combed out when drying. **Dursban is toxic, but we recommend it in a dry form to sprinkle on the yard and play areas outside for keeping fleas away. It should be sprinkled over the ground before a rain, or washed into the ground with a hose, and allowed to dry before the dogs are put out on it. ***Precor 10% (to order, phone 1-800-772-9028) is a wonderful product. It is mixed 1 oz. to one gallon of water, put into a sprayer (hand pump sprayer) and used in the house. It doesn’t kill fleas, only prevents the flea larvae from developing into adults. It can be sprayed on everything in a fine mist - under couches, over drapes, in corners on hardwood floors, over rugs, under appliances - just everywhere. It is very safe, and harmless to puppies and dogs. This only needs to be done every three months if you have had a heavy infestation; otherwise twice a year is adequate.
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